DDM Tuning

Tech Support/FAQ

Online Support

Please contact us for order status, tech support, or warranty/RMA questions, email support@ddmtuning.com.

Search our Knowledgebase and Troubleshooting section for answers to most questions.

Below is a list of cars that have common problems when installing HID’s. This list is NOT all cars that have problems. We are updating the list as we see patterns with certain makes and models.

***We can not guarantee these tips will work 100% but these fixes are what most customers have used and shared with us to solve some of these common problems when installing HID’s on these vehicles.***

***NOTE: Vehicles that use a single bulb for the Daytime Running Light and Low or High beam will need a wiring harness when converting these to HID.

Acura Integra (94-01): Low beams – reversed polarity
Acura MDX (Most models): Low beams – reversed polarity
Acura RSX: Low beams – Needs H1 bulb holder: CLICK HERE
Acura ILX: Needs Wiring Harness and Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) for high beam HID to function due to daytime running lights
Acura TSX: High Beam/DRL: When converting to HID may need Wiring Harness, Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) and 8 Ohm 50W resistors to prevent flicking and dash light
Acura ZDX: May need Wiring Harness for DRL’s to function properly with HID or LED, some may need Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) too.
Audi (Most 2002 to current): Low beams – Canbus Kit or may need Error Code Eliminators (BOW3)
Audi A4 (2002-2005): Fog lights – reversed polarity
Audi A4 (2002-2005): Low beams – Canbus Kit, or try Error Code Eliminators (BOW3)
Audi A5 (2007 to present): Fog lights – Canbus Kit, or try Error Code Eliminators (BOW3)
BMW 3 Series (E36: 1992-1999): Low beams – May need 2200 micro farad capacitor if OBC reads a bulb out
BMW 3 Series (E46: 1999-2005): Low beams – May need Error Code Eliminators (BOW3). Need H7 Bulb Holder: CLICK HERE
BMW 3 Series (E9X: 2005-present): Low beams/Fog Lights – Canbus Kit or may need 4700 Micro Farad Capacitors.
BMW 5 Series (E39: 1996-2003): Low beams/fog lights – Typically needs Error Code Eliminators (BOW3). OEM Headlights need H7 Bulb Holder
BMW 5 Series (E34: 1988-1995): Low beams – May need 2200 micro farad capacitor
BMW 5 Series (E60: 2004-present) – Canbus Kit or may need 4700 Micro Farad Capacitors or BOW3.
BMW 7 Series (E38: 1994-2001): Fog lights – Reversed polarity
BMW X3: Low beams/Fog Lights – Canbus Kit or may need 4700 Micro Farad Capacitors.
BMW Motorcycles (All styles) – May need Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) or Canbus Kit.
Buick: – May need Wiring Harness to address the flickering issue, for those models with auto light sensor. Some may still need to cover the sensor, even with the HID harness installed.
Cadillac CTS (2003-2007) – Has reversed polarity
Cadillac (Most models and Years): Low beams – Reversed polarity
Cadillac Escalade ESV/EXT (00-06) – When turning on the fog lights, the relay for the fogs also pulses the rear windshield wiper and slightly moves it up and down once
Chevy Trucks: May need Wiring Harness if there is a firing issue with one side (typically happens on the pass side)
Chevrolet Cruze: Needs Wiring Harness and Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) for vehicles with DRL
Chevrolet Camaro: (2009+) : May need Canbus Kit
Chevrolet Colorado (All years): Low beams – reversed polarity.
Chevrolet Colorado (2009+) : May need Canbus Kit
Chevrolet Corvette (C5: 1996-2004) – Typically needs a Wiring Harness
Chevrolet Malibu 7th gen (2008-2012): May have reversed polarity, may need Canbus kit
Chevrolet Malibu 8th Gen (2013-2015) :Low beam – Canbus kit
Chevrolet Silverado (Most years): Low beam – Has Reversed Polarity
Chevrolet Silverado – 2nd Gen (2007+): Fog lights – No HIDs, may melt the housing with 35w HID kit.
Chevrolet Silverado – 2007+: Low beams – Canbus Kit if it’s equipped with DRL. Also may have reversed polarity.
Chevrolet Suburban (All years): Low beam – Has Reversed Polarity
Chevrolet Suburban (2015+) : Low Beams – Canbus kit if it’s equipped with DRL
Chevrolet Tahoe (All years): Low beams – Has Reversed Polarity. Also may require a HID relay harness.
Chevrolet Tahoe/Suburban (00-06) – When turning on the fog lights, the relay for the fogs also pulses the rear windshield wiper and slightly moves it up and down once
Chevrolet Volt: May need Error Code Eliminators (BOW3).
Chrysler 300 series (2005-present): Lows / Highs / Fogs – Canbus Kit or reversed polarity into Error Code Eliminators (BOW3)
Chrysler PT Cruiser (2001-2007): Low beams – May need a Wiring Harness
Chrysler Crossfire: Low beams – May need Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) or ECU flashed to turn on the Xenon shutter

Dodge Avenger (2007-present): Reversed polarity. Use Canbus Kit or try Error Code Eliminators (BOW3)
Dodge Charger (2006-present): Low beams Reversed polarity. Use Canbus Kit or try Error Code Eliminators (BOW3)
Dodge Caliber (2007-present): Low beams Use Canbus kit or try Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) or Wiring Harness
Dodge Dart (2013-14): Low beams Use Canbus kit , or may require both Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) and Wiring Harness if DRLs are enabled.
Dodge Magnum: Lows / Highs / Fogs Use Canbus Kit or try reversed polarity into Error Code Eliminators (BOW3)
Dodge Ram (1999-2010): use Canbus kit, or use Resistor Packs if you would like to keep dual filament headlights
Dodge Ram (2010-13): Low beams use Canbus kit, or try Error Code Eliminators (BOW3)
Dodge Ram (2004-present): Fog lights use Canbus kit, or try both BOW3 and Wiring harness
Dodge Ram (2009+): High beams use Canbus kit, or try both BOW3 and Wiring harness.
Dodge Ram (2014-2015): Low beams: Use Canbus Kit
Dodge Ram (2015+): use DDM Plus Canbus kit, some of them may still require to add BOW3 even with DDM Plus Canbus kit
Eagle Talon Reversed Polarity
Ford Edge (2009+): Canbus Kit or may need a Wiring Harness, and some applications may also need 6 Ohm 50W resistors or 1500 micro farad capacitor
Ford Escape (2006+): Canbus kit or may need Error Code Eliminators (BOW3).
Ford Explorer(2006+): Canbus kit
Ford Focus (2012+): Canbus Kit or may require 55W Ballasts and Wiring Harness, and some applications may also need 6 Ohm 50W resistors.
Ford Fusion (All years): Canbus Kit or may need Wiring Harness, and some also need 6 Ohm 50W resistors
Ford F-150 (2009+): Canbut Kit or May need Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) and Wiring Harness if using low beam only kit.
GM Trucks: May need Wiring Harness if there is a firing issue with one side (typically happens on the pass side)
GMC Canyon reversed polarity.
GMC Sierra Low Beams have reversed Polarity. High Beams might have reversed polarity.
GMC Sierra 2014+: Low beams Canbus Kit works best or may need Wiring Harness and Error Code Eliminators (BOW3). Also may have reversed polarity.
GMC Jimmy (95-06) High and Low beam have reversed polarity.
GMC Yukon/Yukon XL/Denali (00-06) When turning on the fog lights, the relay for the fogs also pulses the rear windshield wiper and slightly moves it up and down once
GMC Envoy (2007+): May need 1500 micro farad capacitor
GMC (2015+) : May need Plus Canbus kit
Honda Accord (Most years): Low beams have reversed polarity
Honda Accord (2014+) : Low Beam with Auto Lights may require Canbus Kit.
Honda Civic (2014): Fog lights may have reversed polarity.
Honda Pilot (1st Gen: 2003-2008) Low beam have reversed polarity
Honda Pilot (2nd Gen: 2009-2015), (3rd Gen: 2016-Present): May require Canbus kit.
Prelude (BB6 97-01): Low beams May need an H1 Bulb Holder
Hyundai (All Models 2011+) Canbus Kit or Wiring Harness for low and fogs some may also require Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) when using HID harness
Hyundai Sonata (2015): Low beams may require 6 Ohm 50W resistors and Wiring Harness
Jeep Commander May need Wiring Harness
Jeep Cherokee (2014+): Canbus Kit
Jeep Grand Cherokee (Most years) – May need a Wiring Harness
Jeep Grand Cherokee (2011+): Fog lights No HIDs, may melt the housing with 35w HID kit.
Jeep Grand Cherokee (2014): Canbus Kit
Jeep Wrangler : Low Beam Kit- Use Ultra Canbus Kit or DDM Plus Canbus Kit.
Jeep Wrangler (2005-present): high/low bulbs Use Ultra Canbus Kit or DDM Plus Canbus Kit.
Jeep Wrangler Rubicon (2014): May need 6 Ohm 50W resistors to prevent high beam flickering
Jeep Wrangler: Fog Lights, may need Canbus Kit.
Kia (All Models 2011+) Canbus Kit or Wiring Harness for low and fogs some may also require Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) when using HID harness
Kai Optima 2015+: Needs Canbus Kit for headlights and fog lights
Kia Sorento 2016+: Needs DDM Plus Canbus Kit
Lexus Fog Lights (2013+) Bulbs marked with the following: “H16” “12V 19W” “64219L+” This is a 19W halogen bulb that has a very similar base to the H11. Do not use HID’s in these applications, the housings are made of a soft plastic and may melt with 35W HID kits. Please check the bulbs before ordering as it looks like Lexus is using this bulb in many of the new models. Using an H11 LED bulb is recommended.
Lexus SC300 (1991-2000): Low beamsHas reversed polarity
Lexus (Most models): Low beams and fog lights Has reversed polarity
Mazda 3 / Mazda 6 – Typically need Wiring Harness for HID Kits
Mercedes Benz (Most 2002+): Low beams – Canbus Kit or Error Code Eliminators (BOW3)
Mercedes Benz (Most 2002+): Fog lights Canbus Kit or Error Code Eliminators (BOW3)
Mercedes Benz: Low beams H7 bulbs may need an additional adapter we do not sell. Search “H7 adapter Mercedes” on Google for find a vendor, we do not sell the piece.
Mini Cooper Use Resistor Packs if vehicle came with H13 halogen bulbs or Canbus Kit for single beam applications
Mitsubishi Lancer Evo VIII: Canbus kit. Or may need Wiring Harness and Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) Capacitors if equipped with DRL.
Mitsubishi Evo 9: Low Beams have reversed polarity.
Nissan Fog Lights (2016+) Bulbs marked with the following: “H16” “12V 19W” “64219L+” This is a 19W halogen bulb that has a very similar base to the H11. Do not use HID’s in these applications, the housings are made of a soft plastic and may melt with 35W HID kits. Please check the bulbs before ordering as it looks like Nissan is using this bulb in many of the new models. Using an H11 LED bulb is recommended.
Nissan Armada Driver side may have reversed polarity
Nissan Altima (2002-2006) Fog lights may have reversed polarity
Nissan Rogue (2014+) Low beam / High beam / Fog lights: Canbus kit. Or requires Wiring Harness, some may require Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) too.
Nissan Murano (2010) May need Wiring Harness with vehicles equipped with Auto Lights
Nissan Versa (2006+) May need Canbus Kit
Pontiac GTO The fog lights have reverse polarity
Pontiac G8 (All years): Fog lights No HIDs, may melt the housing with 35w HID kit
Pontiac Trans Am (2002, may apply to all F-Style Chassis): One side amy have reversed polarity. We’ve had reports that the driver side is reversed and the pass side is normal.
Pontiac Trans Am (2002, may apply to all F-Style Chassis): Fog Lights have reversed polarity
Saturn LS (00-05) Reversed Polarity.
Scion (All models, most years): Low beams Reversed polarity
Subaru WRX (2002-2003) Low beams have reversed polarity
Subaru WRX (4th Gen) May have reversed polarity on fog lights
Subaru Forester (Gen II, 2002-2008): May need Wiring Harness for low beam only kits.
Subaru Impreza (Gen 4: 2011+): Reversed polarity on low beams. High beam has DRL and will be better to use LED headlight kit
Subaru Fog Lights (2013+): Bulbs marked with the following: “H16” “12V 19W” “64219L+” This is a 19W halogen bulb that has a very similar base to the H11. Do not use HID’s in these applications, the housings are made of a soft plastic and may melt with 35W HID kits. Please check the bulbs before ordering as it looks like Subaru is using this bulb in many of the new models. Using an H11 LED bulb is recommended.
Toyota Corolla (03-08): Low beams – Canbus kit, Reversed polarity, may need Wiring Harness and (BOW3).
Toyota Corolla (09-Present): Low beams Canbus kit, Reversed polarity. Cars with automatic lights may require Wiring Harness and Error Code Eliminators (BOW3).
Toyota Camry (All years): Low beams Reversed polarity. Some of the fog lights have reversed polarity too.
Toyota Matrix (2002-Present): Low beams May need Canbus Kit and reversed polarity.
Toyota Matrix (2009) : For DRL/High Beam, the better option is to use LED headlight
Toyota 4Runner (1995-1998): Low beams May need Wiring Harness
Toyota Highlander (01-07) Reversed Polarity
Toyota Tacoma (2016): Low beams May need Canbut kit. Standard kits might be flickering on one side or both sides. Earlier years may need Canbus kit too.
Toyota Fog Lights (2013+) Bulbs marked with the following: “H16” “12V 19W” “64219L+” This is a 19W halogen bulb that has a very similar base to the H11. Do not use HID’s in these applications, the housings are made of a soft plastic and may melt with 35W HID kits. Please check the bulbs before ordering as it looks like Toyota is using this bulb in many of the new models. Using an H11 LED bulb is recommended.
Volvo (Most years): Low beams Canbus Kit or may need Error Code Eliminators (BOW3)
Volvo C30 (2008+): Low beams Canbus Kit or may need 55w ballasts, Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) and Wiring Harness
Volvo S40/V50 (2004.5+): Low beams Canbus Kit or may need 55w ballasts, Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) and Wiring Harness
Volvo S60/V70 (2001+): Low beams Canbus Kit or may need 55w ballasts, Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) and Wiring Harness
Volvo XC90 (2003+): Low beams -Canbus Kit or may need 55w ballasts, Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) and Wiring Harness and sometimes has reversed polarity
VW (Most newer vehicles ~2007+): Canbus Kit
VW Golf/Jetta (MkIV) Canbus Kit or Needs Wiring Harness.
VW Jetta (2009) Fog lights have reversed polarity. (May be issue with all A5 Jetta’s)
VW GTi (2004-present) Canbus Kit or may need Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) or resistors(6 Ohm 50W) but LBF will be present.
VW Jetta (2010-present) Canbus Kit or may need Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) or resistors (6 Ohm 50W) but LBF will be present.
VW Passat (2005-Present) Canbus Kit or may need Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) or resistors (6 Ohm 50W) but LBF will be present.
VW Golf (MkV) Reverse lights have reversed polarity and will not work with LEDs
VW Tiguan Canbus Kit or may need Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) or resistors (6 Ohm 50W) but LBF will be present.
VW Touran Canbus Kit or may need Error Code Eliminators (BOW3) or resistors (6 Ohm 50W) but LBF will be present.
Yamaha V-Max H4 bulbs only: High/low bulbs may be too long for the headlight housing and not fit without modification. Low beam only H4 bulbs may not encounter this issue.

The following list of bulbs can be cross referenced to another bulb.

9003 is the same as H4
HB2 is the same as H4
HB1 is the same as 9004
HB3 is the same as 9005
HB4 is the same as 9006
HB5 is the same as 9007
9008 is the same as H13
9145 is the same as H10
800 series bulbs are the same as 880

IF your car has flickering issues or a warning light in your dash, you may need to install Bulb Out Warning Cancelers (aka Error code eliminators). These units work on most vehicles. They work on 93% of cars with computer issues.

Certain cars are known to need these units such as: Newer Mercedes, BMW’s, Audi’s, Dodge’s, Chrysler’s, Jeeps, Mazda’s as well as others.

Refer to: http://ddmtuning.com/support/index.php?_m=knowledgebase&_a=viewarticle&kbarticleid;=20&nav;=0,2

WARNING: BOW Cancelers can pop if installed on vehicles with reverse polarity. We recommend wearing safety glasses, standing back from the unit and closing the hood.

If you need a replacement BOW unit, send us pictures of the defective unit and include your order number. Submit a return ticket.

When converting bulbs that also act as Daytime Running Lights (DRL) to HID you will typically require the HID harness for installation.

The DRL on most vehicles do not run at full power, the vehicle is pulsing power to the halogen bulbs to give the impression the lights are running at a lower voltage. When using the HID harness the DRL typically pulse power fast enough to leave the relay in the ON position so the HID kit can draw power directly from the battery.

There are some vehicles that pulse power at a speed that will cause the relay to turn on and off rapidly. In some cases this will still allow the ballasts to draw consistent power from the battery but in others the lights will still flicker and turn off. If you have a vehicle that causes the relay to flicker you will need to use the Error Code Eliminators on the input side of the harness to prevent the relay from turing on and off with the DRL.

If your HID kit is not working properly, it could be due to one of several reasons:

Flickering: Flickering on both sides of the vehicle can be caused by insufficient available power or incompatibility with the vehicle’s computer system.

Please determine if the flickering occurs with the engine running and with the engine off. If the problem occurs only with the engine running, it’s likely that you need error code eliminators to make the HIDs acceptable to the vehicle’s computer system (Dodge Rams and later model BMWs are exceptions as the Type 3 Error Code Eliminators will not correct the problem).

If the flickering occurs with the engine running and with the engine off, there may be a general powering issue, which may involve DRLs (see below) or be a general powering issue that may be resolved by installing an HID accessory harness so that the HIDs are powered from the battery rather than through the stock wiring.

If your car has Daytime Running Lights (DRLs), the reduced operating voltage of the DRLs is likely responsible for the flickering; the problem may be corrected by pulling the fuse for the DRLs or otherwise disabling the DRLs (this may not be legal in your jurisdiction so please check the local laws). An accessory HID harness may solve the flickering problem due to DRLs but this will convert your DRLs to “full on” status.

Neither light turns on: This is almost always due to reversed polarity. This can be corrected by reversing (flipping) the connector on the input side of the ballast. Another possible explanation is a blown fuse. Or, if a harness is being used, the relay or in-line fuse has likely failed.

One side doesn’t turn on reliably or at all: This is likely caused by a defective bulb, ballast or an issue with the stock wiring (available power). To identify the responsible component, please swap bulbs or ballasts from one side of the vehicle to the other; if the problem follows one component then that is the part responsible for the failure. If all of the components prove to be functional on one side of the vehicle then you likely have a powering problem on the side that is failing; this will likely be corrected by installing an accessory HID harness.

Intermittent firing for both sides: If it takes multiple on-off cycles to get the HIDs to turn on, you may have a powering issue, which is often resolved by the installation of an accessory HID harness. Also, sometimes increasing the headlight fuse by 5 amps solves the problem.

If you have an HID Harness (whether it’s an accessory or H/L harness) installed and are still getting intermittent firing, double check your power and ground cable connections.

Our Hi/lo bulbs are telescoping bulbs. They use a single hid bulb that has a magnetic base. You will have to wire a Hi/lo harness with the bulbs. When you turn on your high beams the bulb will move inward changing the beam pattern. The harness will come with the Hi/lo bulbs. The effect of the hi/lo will depend a lot on the headlight you are putting them in. Some headlights may have very little effect due to the reflective properties of their headlight.

All of our bulbs are rated up to 60 watts. If ordered a 55w HI/LO kit you may noticed the bulbs have a 35w sticker on them. Do not be alarmed as these bulbs are rated up to 60 watts. The ballast are what controls the output, so as long as you received 55w ballast you will have a 55w kit.

The following information was provided by a very thoughtful customer (thanks, Billy!), who sorted out how to suppress the high beam flickering seen on ’07+ Jeep Wranglers. Some Jeeps have a pulsing system from the ECU to determine if a bulb is out; it can’t be seen with a multimeter. It just causes the relay to chatter when the vehicle is running with the high beams on. To stop this, 2 parts are needed (available from most electronics parts stores): 220uF electrolytic capacitor (p/n 272-1029) and a 50v-1a silicon diode (p/n 276-1101). The diode gets installed on the high beam trigger wire to prevent spikes going back to the ECU. The capacitor gets wired between the high beam trigger wire and the ground wire. The capacitor keeps the relay engaged during the pulsing through the blue wire when the high beams are on and the vehicle is running. If there is flickering on low beam, then the same approach applied to the low beam circuit should be successful.

If your HID bulbs do not light upon installation, the likely explanation is that the stock wiring’s polarity is reversed relative to the ballast. In other words, the power and ground wires of your vehicle’s stock harness are reversed relative to the ballast.

To correct for reverse polarity, please remove the plug from the input socket of the ballast, flip the plug and re-connect it. The HID bulbs should now turn on. If they don’t, you may have a fuse that is blown; if so, please replace the fuse then try the HIDs again.

Having connected to the ballast with reverse polarity did not do any harm to the ballast. As mentioned above, it is possible for the reverse polarity situation to pop a fuse.

Flipping the input plug to the ballast usually means that the clips on the plug will not be used. The yellow gasket on the plug will hold the connection but feel free to use electrical tape as a secondary means of securing the connection.

Reverse Polarity is common for Chevy’s and Honda’s and has been reported for other vehicles, too. Some vehicles have reverse polarity for one plug and not the other.

At times, a High/Low harness can have an input plug wired in reverse. This situation can be treated as a matter of “reverse polarity” such that flipping the plug 180 degrees will solve the problem.

Toyota has recently started using a new 19W fog light bulb: part number 64219L+. This is a 12V 19W bulb manufactured by Osram. There is a ECE Certification code “H16” stamped on the base of the bulb. This bulb does not cross reference to the H16 HID or LED bulbs but instead will cross reference to the H11 Bulb.

We do not recommend using an HID system in this application because the heat from the HID can damage the fog light housing. It is recommended to use LEDs for these lights.

Troubleshooting: Direct Battery Test–Do the HIDs Work Independent of the Vehicle?

It may be useful to perform a direct battery test to determine if the problem with your HID kit has to do with a component(s) of the HID kit or with the interface of the HID kit with the stock wiring/electrical system of your vehicle.

To do a direct battery test, the leads/pins that are connected to the stock wiring will instead be touched to the power and ground terminals of a live battery. You can mimic several on-off cycles by simply touching/removing one of the leads. Do the HIDs perform as they were when connected to the vehicle? If so, then the problem is with the HID kit. If the HID kit works fine during the direct battery test, then the problem with the HID has to do with its compatibility with the vehicle. Depending on the particulars, the solution may be to purchase a wiring harness, to check for loose connections, to purchase error code eliminators. If these solutions don’t seem appropriate, we’ll be glad to advise.

This can be done very easily with low beam bulbs that have metal spade connectors (pins) on the adapter wire (H1, H3, H7, 880, H16, H13 low beam, etc). For low beam bulbs that have plastic shell connectors, either the pins/spades need to be removed from the shell (easier for some bulbs than others; generally strategy described below for the High/Low bulbs) or leads need to be attached to the pins/spades that can then be connected to the battery terminals.

For 9004 H/L, 9007 H/L and H4 H/L bulbs, the direct battery test can be done after the pins are removed from shell connector that is on the harness. Please leave the harness connected to the battery and grounded as originally wired. Please note the position of the wires–color assignments–before removing them from the plastic shell connector.

To remove the pins from the shell connector, you’ll need to insert a small screwdriver (jeweler’s screw driver, etc) or a pick/awl at the base of the pin on the side of the plug where the pins are protruding. There’s a barb that is flared away from the pin that keeps the pin from sliding out of the shell connector. Using the tool, push up on the pin to flatten the barb and at the same time, give a firm tug on the wire from the back of the plug. The wire with the pin will slide out.

After doing the direct battery test, to re-insert the pins, please gently and carefully flare the barb up a little bit so that it will catch as it’s supposed to upon re-inserting the pin into the plug.

Unfortunately, H13 H/L bulbs and their harness plug are not amenable to the direct battery test by removing the pins from the shell connector. The only way to perform a direct battery test would be to attach leads to the pins and touch those to the battery terminals.

The best way to determine the bulb type that your vehicle requires is to pull the existing bulb and/or check the owner’s manual. Another resource is sylvania.com, which is linked from our website under the “Bulb Type” tab in the HID Kit sections; sylvania.com is almost always accurate however the database does contain errors for which we cannot take responsibility. Aftermarket housings should designate the bulb-type required. Ultimately, it’s the customer’s responsibility to order the correct bulb type.

We sell bulbs with kelvin ratings that range from 3000K to 12000K. 3k being yellow and 12k being the bluish in color. The most popular color we sell is 6000k. That would be described as white with a hint of blue. For maximum visibility, we would recommend staying within 4500K-6000K. The closer the color is to natural sunlight, the more you will see on the road.

You will lose visibility when going towards 12000k. Most people who do 10000-12000k are going for a specific look. The Ballast are what controls the brightness of the output while the bulb will reflect the color of the light.

Note: All brands can vary in color. Our colors are true to our description. Bulb colors can appear to be different based on outside factors, such as the type of headlight you are putting them in and they way the light is being reflected or projected out of them.

The wattage of the HID kit is determined by the ballast. All our bulbs are rated up to 60W and work with both the 35W and 55W ballasts without compromising the lifetime of the bulbs.

If your car is equipped with factory HIDs, you may change the color of the bulbs by replacing only the bulbs (we sell replacement bulbs for D1 and D2 bulbs; those are found in our HID section). If you wish to change the brightness of your stock HIDs, you can do that for D2 HID kits but not D1 HID kits by purchasing a 55W D2 HID kit. Please note that the D2 HID kits do not include any wiring to connect the stock wiring to the ballasts. Our ballasts have a 9006 input socket, which may be compatible with the stock plug, in which case no additional wiring will be needed. If the stock wiring does not use a 9006 plug then you will want to purchase the H1/H7 to 9006 adapter cables (these will need to be spliced into the power and ground wires of the stock wiring) to run from the stock wiring to the ballasts.

In order to upgrade your car to HID from halogen bulbs you will need to purchase a full HID kit. All of our HID kits come with 2 Xenon Bulb and 2 Ballasts unless otherwise noted (Motorcycle Kits are available with a single bulb / ballast combination). Some cars may require a wiring harness or bulb out warning cancellers (See list of cars with known issues) to work properly.

Please see our Return & Warranty Section, which is linked from the top right corner of our webpage.

Please be sure to contact us to obtain an RMA number before sending any item(s) to us for any reason.

Exchanges:

If you need to exchange an item, the product must be in Brand New condition. We will inspect and test all items to make sure they are in brand new working condition. You will have to cover any shipping charges related to this exchange. If the item is not in new condition, we cannot accept the product and you will be responsible for shipping to have the item returned to you.

Refunds:

We can process returns for refund if the item is in Brand New condition. The refund is subject to 20% restocking fee. The amount refunded is based on the original price you paid; shipping is not refunded. All returns for refunds will need to be completed within 30 days of when the customer received the order.

***Please Remember–Do not ship back any items until you have been issued an RMA Number***

LOW BEAM BULBS

HIGH/LOW BULBS

Please first trouble-shoot the situation to identify the source of the failure (for HID kits, this involves determining if the bulb, ballast or harness is responsible for the failure). Then, please contact us via email (using the Support Center/Submit a Ticket option) or a phone call (858-633-2020, Option 2) to request a warranty exchange. We will be glad to assist you with the trouble-shooting if that turns out to be problematic.

Below is some general information for HID-related Warranties:

– DDM Slim HID Kits have a Lifetime warranty; Apexcone Full-size Raptor HID Kits have Lifetime warranty; the Raptor Slim Kits sold in 2009 had a 1 year warranty

– If you have a defective bulb, we replace the defective bulb

– If you have a defective ballast, we only need to replace the defective ballast

***Please do not send anything back to us until you have obtained an RMA Number***

Before sending your product for warranty issues, please make sure you fully troubleshoot your situation. Shipping to us is not covered after 7 days of receiving the product nor is it covered for international orders. We will cover the return shipping back to the customer if the item returned is defective and within the United States. International shipping is not covered to or from us at any time.

**If the returned items are tested and working properly you will be responsible for any shipping charges to have the items sent back to you.**

In order to explain the exact process, you should know the major participants in the credit card transaction and settlement process as well as their roles:

* Authorize.Net® acts as a bridge between your company and the financial entities that handle the processing and settlement of credit card transactions.

* Your Merchant Bank Account is the bank account that allows you to receive settlement funds for credit card transactions processed through the Internet.

* The Acquiring Bank is the bank that holds your merchant bank account. If you signed up for the Authorize.Net Payment Gateway through a reseller or other sales organization, you may not have a direct relationship with your acquiring bank.

* The Processor refers to the payment processor that processes credit card transactions (e.g. TSYS, FDMS Nashville).

* The Credit Card Issuer is the financial institution or bank that issued the credit card to your customer.

* The Credit Card Interchange System refers to the system established by the credit card associations that allows acquiring banks to submit credit card transactions to the credit card issuing bank for settlement on behalf of their merchant clients.

The following steps describe the actual credit card process:

A credit card transaction is submitted to the Authorize.Net Payment Gateway.
Authorize.Net automatically passes the transaction over a secure connection to the Processor.
The Processor passes the transaction to the Credit Card Interchange System.
The Credit Card Interchange System routes the transaction to the appropriate Credit Card Issuer.
The Credit Card Issuer approves or declines the transaction based on available funds and passes both the transaction results and, if approved, the appropriate funds back through the Credit Card Interchange System.
The Credit Card Interchange System relays the transaction results to the Processor.
The Processor relays the transaction results to Authorize.Net.
Authorize.Net stores the transaction results and sends them back to the customer, and/or you, the merchant.

On average, steps 1-8 take only 2 to 3 seconds! See our “How it Works” diagram for an illustration of these steps.

Please note that some of the information that Merchant Service Providers require is never seen by Authorize.Net. Our system cannot check to verify if a credit card is a personal or business card or if the card issuing bank is foreign or domestic. Simply put, our service is to provide the secure gateway for the credit card and authorization information to pass over the Internet from your web site to the payment processor for your account. The type of information that some Merchant Service Providers require is never seen by Authorize.Net.

The transaction must go through a second process at the end of the day, where the entire batch of transactions made in a 24- hour period is sent to the processor for settlement and final processing. The batch takes the following route:

Authorize.Net servers.
Acquiring bank’s processor.
Credit card interchange system.
Credit card issuer (transaction verified and funds are released).
Funds and process results go back to interchange system.
Funds are sent to acquiring bank, then to the merchant’s bank.
Process results sent to processor.
Process results sent to Authorize.Net servers and stored on your account.

I received an error during checkout and was still charged

If you run into an error during checkout and your credit card statement appears to have the charge taken out, do not be alarmed. This is a Temporary Hold. The bank puts an authorized hold for the amount which will fall back to the card in 3-7 business days. This time frame depends on the bank. The funds will not be available until the hold is reversed by the bank.

Price matching policy

Unlike most companies we will always try and sell our products at the lowest possible price. As our cost for goods drop we will do what we can to lower our price for our customers as well.

We will ONLY price match if the item has not been delivered. If you order an item you receive it and the price drops the next day, we CANNOT do a price match.

How does price matching work?

If you find an item in a competitor’s website that is priced lower than it is at www.ddmtuning.com, we will match the price. The competitor’s ad must be current, and the product must be the identical item, brand name, quantity and model number.

Exclusions:

DDM Tuning will not price match competitors’ items that are limited in quantity, offered for sale for less than six hours during a day, or offered for sale during Thanksgiving, the day after Thanksgiving, the weekend after Thanksgiving, and the Monday after Thanksgiving. DDM Tuning will not price match competitors’ websites bonus or free offers, special offers, bundled offers, rebates, financing offers, coupons, clearance or closeout prices, or prices on used, damaged, returned, open box or display merchandise. DDM Tuning will not price match services. DDM Tuning will not match typographical errors or competitors’ prices that result from a price match. DDM Tuning will not match “Going out of business” sales or “close out” prices.

When you place an order the bank authorizes a hold on the funds with your credit card company. If the funds are available and the billing information is correct the funds will be authorized and removed from the account. If the credit card is declined for any reason the bank will not authorize the capture of the funds. The authorization may stay on the account for 3-4 business days before it drops off.

“If you are checking out and you receive and error after putting in your payment information the payment may go into a temporary hold. When you check your credit card statement it may appear to be a double charge as it will look like the money was taken out of the account. The money has not transferred, but is in a temporary hold. It will reverse back into the account in a couple of days. We have no control over the hold as it is the credit card company that initiates the authorized hold.

Please contact a DDM Tuning Associate via a phone call (858-633-2020, Option 3) to change an order. We do not accept order changes via email or phone message (please do not rely on our returning your phone message to make the order change since there can be a delay returning phone calls). Please call us as soon as you determine you wish to make a change to your order to make the change before the order ships; we can not change orders that have shipped. In some cases, instead of changing an order, we will cancel & refund the order and ask you to place the order again.

Orders are processed within about 2 business days; this is the time between the order being placed and the order being shipped. The shipping times vary depending on the item(s) purchased and the delivery destination. Shipping for HID orders typically takes 7 – 10 days (they are shipped via USPS Priority International). Bumper shipments take 5-7 business days. Other orders typically take 3-5 business days. Once the item(s) has shipped, you will receive an email with the tracking number. If the tracking number begins with EE and ends with CN, the tracking number will be valid at usps.com.

International orders are subject to brokerage, taxes and duties for all shipments. We cannot undervalue any shipment or mark it as a warranty repair unless it actually is a warranty replacement item, doing so can lead to the package being seized by customs. Please check with your local import laws regarding taxes and duties that will need to be paid. If these fees are refused by the customer and the package is returned to DDM Tuning you will be refunded less all shipping fees. These fees are charged by Customs and the Freight Company, not DDM TUNING.

If you are requesting a shipping quote for a particular item(s) please include the complete shipping address with your request. If we do now receive the destination address it will delay us in giving you an accurate shipping quote.

Shipping methods depend on item(s) ordered and destination. Most HID and LED orders will ship via USPS First Class or Priority. Most bumpers ship via Pilot Freight due to their size. Other items such as headlights, taillights typically ship UPS / FedEx.

To obtain expedited shipping please call us at 858.633.2020 to get a quote.

In the unfortunate event you receive an item that has been damaged during shipping, notify us within 72 hours of receiving the package. You must keep all the original packaging because the shipping carrier might pick the package up for inspection. If they do pick the package up and it does not have all the original packaging the claim will be denied. As part of the shipping claim, we will need photos of what was damaged and the packaging. Please contact us either by calling us at (858) 633-2020, Option 2 or by sending us an email using our Support Center/Submit a Ticket function.

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